Have You Blushed Today? Top 7 Techniques to Use When Applying Blush.

by Inna Grinblat of Glamorized Skin

Many women leave blush out of their list of staple cosmetic products. Yet blushes and bronzers are the only products that can make your overall look come together with just a few strokes or give you the benefits of the special slimming effects. Hollywood stars, such as Jennifer Lopez, Angelina Jolie and Kim Kardashian, create their signature looks using blushes and bronzers. In the following article, I will discuss the importance of using a blush and now it can improve your appearance and self-confidence. To make things simple, I will be referring to a blush or a bronzer, when using the word blush but I will note which shade/tone I have in mind.

1. Make Your Face Look Slimmer With More Profound Bone Structure.

In order to define your features, your first step should be to figure out your face shape, as described in one of my previous articles, The Ultimate Brow - Part I. There are four general face shapes: long, round, square, oval. Which one is yours? Usually, those of us with round or square face shapes desire to create an illusion of a narrower face and here is how you can do just that. Feel your cheeks for your cheekbones and cheek hollows (right below cheekbones). Do you feel the bone underneath the skin and the angle it is at? This is the general angle your blush brush should follow. It may be more horizontal or more vertical, but you should follow it closely when defining your cheeks with a blush. Additionally, your blush "line" should be either at or right below your cheekbone (your cheek hollows), depending on the overall size of your face. Ladies with smaller, more delicate faces should apply blush right at the cheekbones and those with more area to work with may apply it right below. To narrow your face, start to "draw" with your blush as closely as you can to your ear and bring it out toward your nose/mouth. This way the color will be more intense closer to the ear and less intense as you blend it out towards the center of your face. By following this technique, you will create an illusion of a narrower face with defined cheekbones.

2. Make Your Skin Glow With a Couple of Strokes.

The main secret to a glowing skin is good skin care. We discuss skin care for different skin types here: Oily/Combination Skin Care and Dry/Sensitive Skin Care. However, not all of us have the luxury of having great skin at all times. We just do not have that healthy and beautiful glow that would appear after a long walk in the park every day. No worries, ladies! By applying blush that matches your skin tone well, you can create the glow we all desire. For warm skin tones with red, pink, or yellow undertones (learn more about different skin tones in our article, Color Wheel Your Face) choose peachy colors with a little pink in them, i.e. Smashbox Blush Rush in Chiffon. For cooler skin tones with blue undertone, choose pink shades with just a bit of purple in them, i.e. Clinique Blushing Blush Powder Blush in Smoldering Plum. When applying blush, follow the techniques I describe in this article for a natural looking effect. Additionally, apply a little blush to your temples and the bottom of your chin. This will create an impression that your skin is glowing all over.

3. Make Your Skin Appear Healthier.

Always make sure you are using correct shades for your coloring. Ladies with cool skin tone and either light or dark hair color will look best in peach and pinkish-purple tones, i.e. MAC Powder Blush in Coygirl. I believe brownish and red colors would be too warm for their undertone. Warm skin tones, however, would look washed out/sick with peachy pink blush, while very nice with red or brownish-orange tones, i.e. MAC Powder Blush in Style. Redheads should opt out for reddish-golden shades to achieve a natural look. By paying attention to different colors of your blush you will know which shades make you look washed out and will refrain from using them.

4. Erase Fatigue and Add a "TAN".

Using a blush is the best way to add a "tan" to your appearance without actually spending any time in the sun. First, decide what time of the day you will be wearing your "tan". If it is during the day when there is plenty of day light, try to use a lighter colored blush/bronzer, such as light golden brown with a little sparkle. However, if you are "tanning" yourself for an evening out, then use a deeper brownish matte color. When applying a bronzer, you should use the same technique I describe above in Step 2. Additionally, you may use a little on your cleavage and your collar bones to deepen the effect of your sunless tan. Apply it right under your collar bones and vertically right in the middle of your chest bone. As always, remember to blend well to avoid sharply visible lines of color.

5. Make Your Narrow Face Rounder.

If you have a narrow face that you would like to appear wider, there is a very simple technique you may follow. Again, feel your cheeks for your cheekbones and the apples of your cheeks to figure out which angle you will follow. However, when you apply the blush, start from the apples of your cheeks and blend it out to your ear. Basically, the apples of your cheeks (the front of your face) will have the most color with just a little on your sides. Lighter color on the sides of your face will make them appear fuller. Of course, do not forget to blend the front to make sure there are no harsh lines.

6. Emphasize Your Cheekbones.

Most of us have beautiful cheekbones and we just do not know how to emphasize them. The best way to do it is by using two different blush colors. Of course they should be in the same family of colors, with a lighter and a darker shade. For example, take a deep red and a lighter pinkish-red or a deep brown and a lighter brownish orange color. Apply the darker color to your cheek hollows trying to "draw" the bottom of your cheeks. Then, apply the light color to the apples of your cheeks. Do not forget to blend each color into another. Voilà! Now your beautiful cheeks are Glamorized.

7. Downplay a Protruding Jawline.

If you have a square jaw and would like to draw attention away from it, there is a little trick you can use. Apply your blush (any red, pink, purple or brown variety you choose) to the cheek hollows and the apples of your cheeks. Then, take a deep colored bronzer and a large angled brush (contour brush) and apply the bronzer right on your jaw bone in a sweeping motion from the ear lobe to the chin. Blend this line downward below your jawline to erase any harsh lines. This will not decrease the appearance of your jaw dramatically, but it will diminish the effect a little.

As always, your questions and comments are welcome. I am looking forward to see what you think about blush application techniques I have described. Do you believe they are easy to follow on every day basis?

Self Acceptance, Smiling and Positive Thoughts or a Guide to Cosmetics Shopping from a Professional Make-Up Artist

by Olga Tsiba of Glamorized Skin

We were recently introduced to a Make-Up Artist, Tatyana Seredkina, by one of our models. After meeting Tatyana in person, we realized that we share great passion for the art of make-up. Tatyana’s resume with international education and experience is impressive. She graduated with high honors from Tiiu Luht School of Make-Up in Tallinn, Estonia.  She also completed an apprenticeship with Katrin Sangla, a renowned Estonian Make-Up Artist. Katrin Sangla trained in Hollywood under the pioneer, whose efforts resulted in creation of airbrush make up, Joe Blasco. Inspired by Katrin’s experience and driven by her desire to increase her own awareness of beauty, Tatyana moved to Los Angeles, California.  She studied advanced Make Up Artistry in special effects, stage, and beauty at Joe Blasco’s Professional Make-Up Artist Trainer Center. At the 2008 International Make-Up Artist Trade Show, Tatyana earned a spot among the finalists of the Beauty Fantasy Student Competition. This inspiring young woman currently resides in Laguna Hills, California, and continues to explore beauty by working with many professional photographers and models. Tatyana says that  helping women find their personal best image is what inspires her the most.

Tatyana agreed to share some of her knowledge and personal experiences with Glamorized Skin readers. We love her easy-flowing, conversational style. By the way, all the photos in this post are of Tatyana's work!

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When Olga and Inna of Glamorized Skin approached me and shared their ideas about empowering women and helping them look their best on the daily basis, I thought: what a great way to share what I know about make-up and beauty outside of professional work environment. Here is my small collection of personal tips and findings. While writing this article, I imagined that I am talking to a very good friend.

SHOPPING

WHY

Shopping can be really frustrating when you find yourself in a cosmetic store just because… I find that planning my shopping before entering the store helps. I can be more focused, get what I need, feel more confident and depending on my goals, every salesperson happens to be either invaluable or invisible. By the way, just browsing the store could be a plan too. In any case, every make up shopping trip should be fun. Being in a gloomy mood or in doubt does not work for me.

HOW

Every woman knows how tricky choosing the right color of lipstick can be. Foundation is even trickier. My biggest mistake of all times is trying to find just one perfect magic shade for every occasion and season. I know I need much more than one of everything…even mascara. I have it in black, brown and even purple.

I do not have a magic formula for picking out the right color. It is always based on trials and experiments. I often go outside for daylight to check the colors I liked the most in the store. I use my hand for lipsticks and shadows, although I know it is not the same as my face. The undertone is what is important because it is the same on your entire body. If a shadow looks dull on my hand or a lipstick appears to look odd, it means this particular color just does not go with my skin tone.

I always have two or three foundations. Why more than one? I have a light color and a color that is two shades darker. I use them alone depending on the season and how tanned my skin is or the time of day. I have to admit that I have made mistakes picking out the right colors for myself. Being a make-up artist, I felt very unhappy discovering the “misses” in my purchases after bringing them home. However, over time, I realized that fear of failure is worse than failure itself. Do not be afraid to experiment. In then end you will have fun, get smarter and look fabulous!

ARE BRANDS IMPORTANT? 

I do not make my decisions based on how well known the brand is. The most important factor for me is safety. I avoid products with harmful substances such as parabens, SLS, petrolatum and many others. There are plenty of websites for checking cosmetic safety. I use www.cosmeticsdatabase.com regularly. I was surprised by how a more expensive make up or cosmetic product can be more hazardous for my health than a cheaper brand that you would pick up at a local drug store.

 GLAMOROUS SKIN

Many women want to have fantastic luminous gorgeous skin. During my teenage years, I could not claim that I had great skin. That is when I began to research how to improve skin condition. For example, I learned that simple, fragrance free cleansers, such as Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, work well for my face, body, and shaving needs, regardless of the time of day. Overall I keep my cosmetic routine as simple as possible and always check products for safety. I think it is better to spend time on researching the product than more money on products with unsubstantiated claims.

Being on any type of a diet is a very personal and delicate choice. Every woman’s body is different. I would encourage women to pay attention to how the body reacts to different foods, drinks, medicines and supplements. With today’s access to information on the web, you will be able to find what works for you with time. Our beauty and health is in our hands if only we pay attention. Aside from that, these personal findings help my skin feel and look better:

- Avoid dehydration: I drink plenty of water. I do not drink soda, black tea or use sugar. They take water away from the body. My next step is to get rid of coffee. I have to admit that it is a challenge!

- Help digestion: drink water 15 minutes before a meal, not after. Drinking water after your meal dilutes your stomach acid making it harder for your body to digest food. This is not very easy to get used, but makes a big difference for me. 

There is a connection between what people eat and the appearance of their skin.  Indigestion can lead to breakouts along the jawline, rosacea or other skin disorders. I found that not drinking water right after meals helps skin look more radiant.

- Sweets right after a meal, for me, is not the best time for their digestion for the same reason as not drinking water right after meals.

This topic has no ending, but those are my personal staples. I found them helpful in maintaining the health of my skin.

THE BEST MAKE UP PRODUCTS 

…are Self Acceptance, Smiling and Positive Thoughts

Have you noticed how different your “I feel terrific” face looks from “I feel depressed” face? I realized that a smile makes me look relaxed and glowing.  Switching worries to positive expectations conceals “expression lines” in seconds and heals relationships.

OTHER QUICK TIPS FROM TATYANA

 

If your have blemishes, it is better to use a matte bronzer vs. a bronzer with shimmer. Shimmer emphasizes skin imperfections because it attracts light. You may be surprised, but one of my favorite matte bronzers is the New York Color Smooth Skin Bronzing Face Powder in Sunny (the price is the surprise!). Its tone is just right - not too yellow or orange.

Matte shadows look more sophisticated and elegant; shimmer brings fun to make-up. TheBalm has a palette with nine different shadows that I really like.

Different textures do not blend well together; liquid or creamy texture needs to be powdered before applying dry product. 

You can find out more about Tatyana’s work on her Facebook page and website.

Sources: 

Professional Make Up Artist Training Center, www.Joeblasco.com

All photographs in this article are copyrighted and cannot be used without authorization of the photographer(s).

Does YouTube Star Blair Fowler (juicystar07) Know How to Glamorize?

Blair Fowler is a YouTube sensation. With over 122 million views, Blair posts Vlogs about beauty and fashion. She was featured in Seventeen Magazine, has a web based business with her sister and, oh yeah, she is only 17 years old. Aside from admiring her entrepreneurial spirit and warm personality, we think that Blair's openness to experiments with make up is something that every woman can try. We know some of our readers may stop and wonder whether this post is teenager territory. Rest assured, Blair's make up skills and use of color are sophisticated and women of all ages have something to learn. We decided to review one of Blair's looks from a video she shared back in November 2010 from a point of view of a professional make up artist and show our readers how Blair is able to create a look that works well with her facial features and coloring. We hope that you can learn to complement your own best features by learning from this post. Below is the video in question:

In this video, Blair demonstrates that such a wild color as purple can be used in a sophisticated day or evening look.      

FIRST THINGS FIRST

Let us begin with describing Blair’s facial shape, features and skin undertone. Blair is a brunette, with long-oval face shape, brown, almond shaped eyes, and warm, light to medium skin undertone. She has prominent cheekbones, which are easily emphasized with proper makeup techniques. She does a good job, applying foundation and concealer that match her coloring,conceal all blemishes and even out her skin tone. Her foundation and concealer are well matched to her warm, light to medium skin tone and are blended well all over her face without any streaks or smears.

PURPLE, PURPLE

As noted in our previous article, Eyes That Sparkle, various shades of purple color accentuate green eyes, or bring out any green pigments of the eye color even if it is mostly brown/gray/blue. Blair has naturally brown eyes, but with this purple look, green pigments show through.  She uses Bobbi Brown Cream Eyeshadow Orchid as a base on her eyelids. I would recommend using an eyeshadow primer, especially if you plan to use a cream eyeshadow, so it will keep this oil-based product from creasing and “disappearing” from your skin during the day. Good primers to try are MAC Eye Primer or Sephora Eye Primer Pot. When you use a primer, cream or powder eyeshadow pigments will be more accentuated i.e. the color will be juicy and it helps the product stay on your lids longer. Depending on what you already have in your make up collection or decide to buy, following the primer, apply either a cream or dry eyeshadow in pinkish/mauve/purple color family all over the lid in manner that is flattering to your eye shape (more about this topic in a future post!) Following the application of the cream shadow, Blair uses Bobbi Brown Powder Eyeshadow Pink Pearl on top of the cream shadow. She then follows up with MAC Eyeshadow Brule, a powder eyeshadow in a neutral toned shade, to blend the other colors and to use as a highlighter under eyebrows and in the inner corner of your eye. Finally, Blair uses MAC Eyeshadow Beauty Marked as the darker color in her crease and as a liner. You can create a day look with less intense color or a night look by applying several coats of this shade. 

                            MAC Eyeshadow Brule                                                             MAC Eyeshadow Beauty Marked

TO LINE OR NOT TO LINE?

Blair uses this same eyeshadow as a liner to line both of her upper and lower eyelash lines. As you see in the video, she uses an angled brush and sweeps the color outward. On the bottom lash line, she starts with a thick line on the outer corner of her eye and thins it out as it moves inward. Additionally, she uses a darker pencil liner to rim her lower lash line. In my opinion, by rimming your lower lash line with a dark color you create an illusion of narrower eyes but more cat like. If Blair had done the look without rimming her bottom lashes, her eyes would have appeared larger. You can see this right before she applies the pencil liner.  

MASCARA - YOUR CHERRY ON TOP

Blair curls and applies mascara on her lashes. I agree that curling your lashes will allow your eyes to look bigger and more open, unless you have naturally curled eyelashes. In this case, you may skip this step.

BALANCE, BALANCE, BALANCE

Blair uses Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge Powder Pink as a blush and lip color. This color is in the same color category, pinkish purple, as the rest of Blair's make up. She applies her blush right under and at her cheekbone to accentuate the shape. She uses very little on her lips to keep the whole look balanced.

She also uses a clear gloss on her lips to make them glossier/larger. Another technique for making your lips larger is a lip liner. It will keep your lip gloss/lipstick from leaking and will define your lips better. As mentioned in our article, Natural Look for Every Day, you can either line your lips before or after you apply the lip color. If you use the lip liner, I still recommend using the same muted lip gloss/lipstick color on your lips to keep the attention mostly on the eyes.

The cream based blush is recommended for those of us with dry skin, with few to no blemishes. If it is used on oily/combination skin with acne or uneven skin, it may “disappear” from your skin quiet fast. To fix this problem and to intensify the color for an evening look, I would recommend using a powder blush of a similar color right on top of the cream. Of course, with any look you are creating, do not forget to shape your eyebrows anywhere there are bold spots with a shade that is very close to your natural color. In Blair's case, she carefully selected a warm, deep brown color that matches her dark brown hair and eyebrows. 

PURPLE FOR YOU?

Based on our discussions regarding your overall coloring (hair, skin, eyes), purple color works well on brunettes. Additionally, it will work with other hair/skin tones as long as different shades are used. For example, cool skin toned blondes may wear purple shades with a little silver or gold shimmer to them. Red heads with warm skin tones may wear purple shades that have a little gray or brown undertone. And those of us who have a darker skin tone, may wear purple colors that have a darker tint to them. To learn more about your skin tone, review our article Color Wheel Your Face. As always, I recommend experimenting with different shades and seeing what works best for your undertone and life style.