by Olga Tsiba of Glamorized Skin
Let us begin by reviewing skin types and their characteristics. There are four skin types: oily, combination, normal and dry/sensitive. The easiest way to understand your type is to pay close attention to your skin first thing in the morning. Does it have sheen to it and feels greasy? Does it have dry patches and feels tight all over? Does it have inflamed patches? Or is it a combination of things? Now that you have thoroughly observed your face, check out the types and their descriptions below:
OILY greasy and shiny with enlarged pores
and has a tendency to break out with
acne;
and has a tendency to break out with
acne;
COMBINATION patches of dry and oily skin, usually dry
on the cheeks and around the eyes, and
on the cheeks and around the eyes, and
oily on the forehead, nose and chin; also
tends to break out;
tends to break out;
NORMAL least problematic, feels clean and smooth;
DRY/SENSITIVE sallow tone, with fine lines, fine pores and
prone to irritation; may become tight
and inflamed;
prone to irritation; may become tight
and inflamed;
Each skin type has its own skin care routine and tricks that help to keep it as healthy as possible. In this post, I will only cover OILY and COMBINATION skin types in order to keep things focused. The rest of the skin types will be covered in future posts.
Before I begin, let me tell you about the greatest source of information on skin care I was able to find. I have learned much of the information presented herein from Paula Begoun aka the Cosmetics Cop. Glamorized Skin team started reading her books almost ten years ago (Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me and The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty). We highly admire Paula for thorough research and standing up to cosmetic giants. It is our belief that her work is positively influencing the products that are available to consumers.
The methods, techniques and nutritional information is based on our own experience and constant experimentation in search of finding something that works and provides long lasting results. Please keep in mind that although some products recommended here may be designed by the manufacturer for a different skin type, in this post, I recommend them specifically for oily/combination skin type. The ingredients on the back label and experience rather than the claims on the box serve as the basis for our conclusions.
THE ROUTINE
Oily/Combination Skin Daily Routine Summary (bold items are required; non-bolded are optional depending on skin condition and may be required if acne or other skin conditions are present)
AM: Cleanse, Exfoliate, Disinfect, Additional Products, Moisturize with SPF
PM: Cleanse, Exfoliate, Disinfect, Additional Products, Moisturize without SPF
CLEANSE - for oily/combination skin type, you absolutely must clean your face both AM and PM in order to remove all traces of make up and dirt that you gather throughout the day and any grease and products that have not been absorbed in the morning. There are no excuses, ifs and buts. Just do it! There is one caveat: your cleanser should be GENTLE and not contain any harsh ingredients (i.e. sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate). It also should NOT be a soap bar. Oily combination skin has a natural pH factor of 4-5, while these harsh ingredients are much more basic on the pH scale with solid soaps at a pH as high as 11. Using such harsh ingredients, your skin returns to its normal pH only later in the day and at a price. Excess oil is released to restore the skin's protective acid mantle. Before the acid mantle is restored, the skin's natural antibacterial protection is down and you are more susceptible to acne. So clean, but be gentle. Your products at home can be perfectly good, and you can check them with pH or litmus paper sold on eBay (80 strips for $1). You are looking for a pH of 5-6.
Recommended cleansers: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, Earth Science Clarifying Facial Wash, The Body Shop Aloe Calming Facial Cleanser for Sensitive Skin.
EXFOLIATE - oily/combination skin tends to have larger/visible pores, which increase the chance of acne. Acne appears when these pores do not shed enough dead skin cells and oil's exit paths get clogged. Add some bacteria, and you have got inflammation. Sometimes, the dead skin cells in the pores solidify and you get a blackhead, those black dots on your face. To prevent that from happening and to increase cell turnover, you need to exfoliate. If you exfoliate regularly and correctly, your pore size will shrink given time. There are two methods to exfoliate: chemical and manual. For oily/combination skin types, chemical exfoliation includes BHA aka salicylic acid and manual exfoliation includes scrubs and masks. There are additional ways you can exfoliate at the dermatologist's office, but at the moment we will focus only what you can do at home.
Chemical exfoliation is beneficial because the product is absorbed into pores and reduces inflammation, and can be used on the daily basis. It may be an excellent alternative for those suffering from acne. My recommendation is to start applying salicylic acid in the PM and pay attention how your skin reacts to it. If flakes develop, reduce use to every other day. Otherwise, you can increase the application to both AM and PM for stronger effect. The real results will be visible after several weeks of use, but you should notice improvement in inflammation right away. Do not apply it to wounds that are healing from skin picking as long as there is a scab. BHA is an acid after all, and can damage the healing process.
Taking some extra time to give your face a scrub (made of soft synthetic particles rather than apricot and other ground fruit pits) or a clay mask at the end of a hard day are your manual exfoliation options. Remember that although you can apply chemical exfoliants up to two times a day, scrubs and masks should be used once or twice a week, depending on how your skin reacts. If you use a scrub too often you may "scrub" off too much of the protective layer of your skin and it will start to flake, produce more oil and become more susceptible to acne. My favorite routine is to scrub after being in the shower for a few minutes and follow with a mask. The improvement in the way my skin looks is especially noticeable the next day. The process itself relaxes and reenergizes me.
Recommended chemical exfoliants: Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-In-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment, Any of the BHA products from Paula's Choice (www.paulaschoice.com), Clinique Medical Skin Conditioning Treatment. I want to emphasize that I highly recommend starting with products I list here because the pH factor is extremely important for BHA products and these products have been tested for effectiveness.
Recommended manual exfoliants: Boots Expert Sensitive Gentle Smoothing Scrub, Neutrogena Fresh Foaming Scrub, Nu Skin Epoch Glacial Marine Mud, and Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Carbon Mask available at www.paulaschoice.com.
DISINFECT - if you do not have inflamed acne, skip to step 4. Most oily/combination skin types have some redness and inflammation and this step will help you with that issue. Besides helping the skin shed dead skin cells, an effective skin care routine must include a disinfectant aka benzoyl peroxide. It simply kills bacteria that causes acne. You should try to apply this product at night after cleansing and exfoliation. However, if you want a stronger effect and your skin reacts normal to this step, try applying it in the AM as well. Be careful with this product and apply a very small amount only to the areas that are prone to acne because if applied too much it can irritate your skin.
Recommended disinfectants: Clinique Acne Solutions Emergency Gel Lotion and Paula's Choice Clear Acne Fighting Treatment 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide available at www.paulaschoice.com.
MOISTURIZE - AM moisturizing is optional for this skin type, but ideally, your moisturizer SHOULD include a lotion with sunscreen SPF 15 or higher. There are many conflicting facts about sun protection out there. On the one hand, the sun provides essential vitamin D, while on the other hand, it is the single most powerful source of skin aging. On the one hand, sun screens protect us from the harmful UVA and UVB rays, while on the other hand, recent studies found some of the active ingredients (i.e. titanium dioxide) may be cancerous if used in abundance. Therefore, I will leave the decision about sun screen up to you. If you are a true routine lover, you can just use a lightweight moisturizer with SPF 15 or higher every morning before you go out. Alternatively, if you believe that there is some benefit to the sun’s rays, you can use this type of moisturizer only when you know you will be outside for more than 15 minutes rain or shine. Of course if you are at the beach all day, I highly recommend applying and reapplying sunscreen every two hours because sun burns are linked to skin cancer later in life. This is particularly important for people who take winter vacations in the tropics. I have seen my friends from the Northeast get burned immediately when they did not apply sunscreen generously right away, while on vacation in Mexico and the Dominican Republic.
Recommended AM moisturizers: Olay Regenerist UV Defence Regenerating Lotion SPF 15 or SPF 50, MAC Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15 available at www.maccosmetics.com or in stores, Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Daily Mattifying Lotion with SPF 15 and Antioxidants available at www.paulaschoice.com.
MOISTURIZE - PM moisturizing is a little different for oily/combination skin comparing to other skin types. If you have combination skin, you should apply a moisturizer to dry areas, such as cheeks and around the eyes. If your whole face is oily, you probably do not need a moisturizer, as your exfoliant and disinfectant will provide the necessary "moisturizing" feel. However, if your whole face gets really dry and you feel the need to moisturize, this can be a sign that your cleanser is too harsh, you use BHA/manual scrubs too frequently, or you need to increase your water intake. In general, oily skin does not require additional moisturizing before going to bed.
Recommended PM moisturizers: Clinique Turnaround Concentrate Visible Skin Renewer, Paula's Choice HydraLight Moisture-Infusing Lotion available at www.cosmeticscop.com, Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum, Fragrance-Free, Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate Recovery Boosting Treatment.
ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS - if you are using additional products such as skin lightening products, retinol serums and etc., they would be the last step in your skin care routine and are recommended to be used at night. At night, various healing processes take place in your body and your skin absorption is best. In order to keep your morning routine quick and simple, you should use a minimal amount of products in the morning and leave the rest for the evening, because so many other things require your time and attention whether it is preparing breakfast for your family or commute to work or both.
Recommended Retinol Products (OTC): Olay Pro-X Deep Wrinkle Treatment, Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer, Skin Remodeling Complex available at www.paulaschoice.com, Philosophy Eye Believe.
Read Additional Tips and Nutrition for more information on beautifying your skin