by Inna Grinblat of Glamorized Skin
If you are joining our eyebrow discussion for the first time, we highly recommend you also read The Ultimate Brow - Part I.
WHAT TO DO NEXT
You have gone to the mirror and measured your face to figure out where your eyebrows should start and end. You have also measured the exact place where the arch should be. You did your best at keeping the shape as natural as possible but tweezed it a little here and there to define it based on the guideline. Now what? What if your eyebrows do not begin where they “should”? What if they are too short naturally? What if they do not have an arch, although it feels like they should? What if their color does not match your hair color at all? Eyebrow pencil or shadow comes to the rescue!!! Your main goal is to find the right pencil/shadow color to complement your whole complexion.
LOOKING BACK AT THE COLOR WHEEL
Our good friend, the Color Wheel, will help you figure out the right color for your eyebrow make up. Of course, if you do not dye your hair, you do not need to figure out your eyebrow color because mother nature created it for you. If you need to alter or emphasize the shape of your brows, just pick the shade that matches your hair color OR makes it just a bit darker for a more intense evening look.
Those of us that change hair color should take some time to understand which eyebrow color would work best. Your hair color is your main guide, but here’s a little chart to help you choose:
BLOND hair color + pink/red/yellow skin undertone = light brown/golden eyebrow color
BLOND hair color + blue skin undertone = light gray eyebrow color
RED hair color + all skin undertones = golden red/deep orange color several shades darker than hair
BROWN hair color + pink/red/yellow skin undertone = dark red-brown eyebrow color
BROWN hair color + blue skin undertone = charcoal or dark brown-gray eyebrow color
BLACK hair color + pink/red/yellow skin undertone = dark brown or black eyebrow color
BLACK hair color + blue skin undertone = black eyebrow color
not TOO LITTLE / not TOO MUCH
To make sure your eyebrows look as natural as possible, start with a little color and then add to the desired intensity. For those of you who have never used an eyebrow pencil, I would recommend starting with an eye/brow shadow and a very thin angled brush. You do not need to buy a separate “brow” shadow if you find an acceptable eye shadow color among things you already own. Just tap your brush against the eye shadow and then lightly tap it against your skin as you follow the guidelines below. The powder will be deposited on your skin and neighboring hairs very lightly allowing for a natural look. Once you have mastered the technique, you can try using a pencil.
Using either a pencil or a shadow, start by looking at your eyebrows to find the areas where the hair is missing and there are “bold” patches. These spots occur naturally, as hairs finish growth cycle and fall out and others replace them. These spots need to be covered first. Then, if you need to make your eyebrows longer start where your eyebrows are full and make the line thinner and thinner, making it very thin in the end. If you need to prolong the area where they begin, make sure you decrease the intensity of the color as it moves closer to the bridge of the nose. The color should be the most intense right before, after and at the area where the arch is and its intensity should decrease as it moves out both ways. If you are using a pencil do not "color in" your eyebrows. Try drawing strokes in the direction your hair is growing to make it look more natural.
Here is an example of creating fuller, proportional and complementing eyebrows for our model Kristina, with naturally light hair and green eyes.
1. Natural eyebrows. You can see that they are a little too short. However, they begin at the right place (above the end of her nostrils) and the arch above the iris is visible. This terminology is discussed in detail in The Ultimate Brow - Part I.
2. One eyebrow is filled in and lengthened to its “proper” shape using a matching eye shadow and an angled brush. As a result, the arch is more visible, which emphasizes Kristina’s eye shape.
3. Both eyebrows are filled in and have equal length and beginnings.
This is it. With practice and well-matched colors, your eyebrows will become yet another feature that will help you put your best face forward.
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That's a pretty cool tutorial! I especially like the photos at the end: they sum up the whole article very nicely.
ReplyDeleteOlena, thank you for your comments. I'm glad you liked the step-by-step photos. In the near future we will be posting a similar discussion about natural make up look with similar step-by-step photos tutorial. I hope you will like it as well.
ReplyDelete