by Inna Grinblat of Glamorized Skin
Did you ever wonder why some lipsticks or eye shadow colors look flattering and some foundation colors seem to literally disappear on your skin, while others brashly stand out? Why do some concealers actually conceal breakouts and under eye circles, while others simply make them lighter? The answer lies in the Color Wheel.
THE BASICS
I learned about the Color Wheel while being professionally trained as a make up artist. After having worked with many different skin tones, I can tell you that having the basic knowledge of colors takes most of the guessing out of my work. A short article called Color Made Simple Using the Color Wheel published by the Yahoo Network Associated Press provides a very good summary of the color theory, the primary and secondary colors and how they relate to our faces:
"Let's start with the primary colors: red, blue, and yellow. These colors are basic. But once we mix red and blue, we get purple (violet); blue and yellow—we get green; and yellow and red—we get orange. Those are called secondary colors. Our skin pigments are made up of these primary/secondary colors. When these colors are mixed, it makes a category called "neutral browns". Once we mix white in with the neutral browns, they make a lighter brown, or a tan color—which is how we get light skin tones. When we mix black in with the neutral browns, we get darker skin tones.
Although our skin is made up of browns, whites, and black tones, it still doesn't change the fact that we also have the primary and secondary tones in our skin as well. Makeup is also made with those same tones, so there are perfect makeup shades for all of us out there."
NOW, LOOK IN THE MIRROR
Once you figure out your undertone it will be much easier to find make up shades, such as foundation, eye shadows, and lipsticks that will complement your coloring. Paying closer attention to the skin on your face (around the jawbone or neck) will allow you to have a better idea about what kind of undertone you have. This is the starting point for your “perfect” make up. Why do you think fair skinned ladies usually look amazing wearing a bright red lipstick? It is because they have a pink undertone and pink is from the color red family. Why do you think burgundy dark lipsticks look better on some of the darker skin tones? You guessed it - they go well together because they both have blue undertones. Go to the mirror right now (or use a hand held one while you are reading this) and try to see the different shades of your skin. Do you see a very fair color with some pink showing through? Do you see a light shade but there is a slight yellow tone to it? Do you see a darker shade with a little olive tone showing up where the light does not hit your face? There are many different skin undertones out there: pink, yellow, orange, olive, green, purple and blue. Yes, even purple and blue. One thing we would like to add is that regardless of how light or dark your skin is, it could have any of the undertones. Both pale Caucasian and dark skinned African American women can have the cool blue or the warm orange undertone. In other words, there are many different shades of each skin color. Once you figure out your undertone you made the first step to glamorizing your skin.
SO HOW DO I PICK MY FOUNDATION?
So, before you visit the make-up counter to find the perfect foundation or concealer, make sure you have examined your face very carefully. Then look for similar characteristics in the product. If you have a yellow undertone, does your powder? You may need to try several shades and brands to find the perfect match. If testers are offered, take them home and see how your skin looks in the daylight. The light at many stores is too unnatural, which intensifies the imperfections or bleaches out your skin, skewing the colors. You will look very different once you are outside, at home, at a restaurant or at a club. Although at a club, make up shades matter little because everyone looks good with a mixture of darkness and alcohol.
HOW DO I MAKE MY IMPERFECTIONS DISAPPEAR?
Finally, let us explore the art of using corrective concealers that provide flawless coverage specifically for those hard to hide blemishes. In many instances your inner diva may be screaming, “I want to look glamorous on my photos but my blemishes or dark circles are in the way!” The Color Theory will once again help you. The main point to remember is that each color cancels out its opposite on the Color Wheel. For example, green neutralizes red, which is the color of inflamed skin or acne. Of course you cannot just slab a green concealer on your skin without anyone noticing you have something green on your face. That is why when you are shopping for a concealer to hide your red blemishes you should look for something that matches the shade of your skin (light, medium or dark) but also includes greenish or yellowish tint. The same goes for the concealer that will hide your under eye circles. Orange or peachy color neutralizes the bluish tint, which is what you are after when you try to conceal your dark circles. The product itself should match the tone of your skin but also have a slightly pink or red tint to it. Finally, if you are after covering very dark circles or some other dark discolorations on your skin you can try a purple tinted concealer. However, from my experience, orange pink tinted concealers do a good job covering dark circles.
BEYOND MAKE UP
The color theory can be applied to many other things beyond make up. Hair color, clothes, jewelry, nail polish, and even your new bed sheets follow the same color rules. I hope the information I shared with you today can help you figure out your skin undertone easily, which should lead you to choosing make up shades that complement your coloring quicker and more efficiently.
No comments:
Post a Comment