February 28, 2011

Is GLAMORIZED Natural Look for Every Day Possible? See for Yourself



by Inna Grinblat of Glamorized Skin


Based on requests from our readers, I will be discussing a detailed step-by-step routine for applying makeup to create a natural, day look. As with our other posts, our goal is to bring out a glamorized version of you! For the products that I use, I will provide color descriptions, as well as names/colors of the actual products, so that you can either pick out the colors from products you already own or pick up a few things next time you are shopping for makeup.

Any time you prepare to apply makeup to your face you should begin with cleansed and moisturized skin. If you use any specialty products, such as exfoliants and disinfectants, they should be applied before moisturizing. Please, meet our beautiful model, Kristina.

The first step is to apply a foundation (powder or liquid) or a tinted moisturizer to the entire face. This product should be well matched to your natural skin tone and shade. It should help you in achieving your other goals, such as covering up imperfections or making your skin "glow". For more information about different skin tones and shades and how to choose a color that complements your complexion refer to Color Wheel Your Face. A good way to choose the right foundation color is to apply a small amount of the product on the side of your cheek in natural daylight and see if it matches the rest of your face and neck. Kristina's underlying tone is pink with a little yellow. In order to match her warm skin tone and fair color as closely as possible, I am using a sheer to medium coverage foundation with pink and yellow undertones, L’Oreal True Match Super-Blendable Makeup SPF 17 N2 (available at many drugstores) all over her face, making sure to blend it well into her neck. This foundation is recommended for normal to slightly oily/combination skin. Following the application of a liquid foundation, I set it with loose or compact powder in order for the foundation to look more natural on the skin. For Kristina, I am using MAC Select Sheer/Loose Powder NC5 (available at MAC stores, department stores and online) that also matches her skin's undertone. If you use a powder foundation, or you have a dry to very dry skin, you can skip this step.

Additionally, I use Cinema Secrets professional concealers to erase any of the blemishes she may have. This is how Kristina’s face looks once the foundation, powder, and concealers are applied:


The next step is to GLAMORIZE the eyes. First, I apply a sheer, light beige, matte color (MAC Eyeshadow Brule) to the bottom of her eyes and a sheer, light beige, sparkly color (MAC Eyeshadow Shroom) to both of her lids to help the foundation and concealer around the eyes stay set throughout the day. Kristina has hazel-green eyes and for her personal natural look, I am using golden and brown tones. For more information about how to pick out eyeshadow to bring out your natural eye color, refer to Eyes That Sparkle. I use a sparkly pinkish-golden eyeshadow (MAC Eyeshadow Sweet Lust) above the eyelashes right up to the crease and a brown eyeshadow (MAC Eyeshadow Corduroy) in the crease and both the bottom and top outer corners of the eyes. Afterward, I use a sheer, neutral, sparkly color again (MAC Eyeshadow Shroom) to help blend the brown eyeshadow so that the line where it ends is not harshly defined.


The next step is to apply the eyeliner. For Kristina, I am using a dark brown water-resistant eye pencil (MAC Powerpoint Eye Pencil Stubborn Brown). For a natural look, the line I am creating is fairly thin and does not extend much beyond her eye. The main thing to know about using eyeliner is that you have to make sure it is positioned as close to the lash line as possible, so the skin right before and around the eyelashes is not visible. If the skin is showing between the eyeliner and the lash line, the eyeliner does not serve its purpose anymore. Instead of defining the eye shape and making eyelashes appear thicker, the actual line drawn on the eyelid is immediately visible to other people and does not provide any beneficial effects. This is one of the harder skills to learn, so practice, practice, practice.

The next step is to apply mascara and touch up the eyebrows to their proper shape. For more information about different shapes of eyebrows refer to The Ultimate Brow – Part I and Part II. I am using black mascara on Kristina (MAC Studio Fix Lash Black). My personal favorite is a mascara with a rubber brush applicator. However, synthetic brushes can also get the job done just as well. Additionally, I am using a light brown with a touch of golden color (MAC Eye Shadow Soba) and a thin, angled brush to enhance the eyebrows.


The next step is to apply lipgloss and define the cheekbones with a blush. For Kristina, I use a pink with a small amount of gold sparkles lipgloss (Covergirl CG Wetslicks Lipgloss Tutu 410 available at drug stores). For the blush, I use a pink with a brownish red undertone blush with no shimmer (Cinema Secrets Blush Natural BS004).


To create fuller lips, I use a neutral, brownish pink lip liner that matches the color of her lips well (MAC Lip Pencil Whirl). You can apply a lip pencil before or after you use a lip gloss. However, if you are applying lipstick, it is better to use the pencil before the lipstick in order to allow it to blend well with the pencil.


Finally, Kristina had put her hair down and as Tyra Banks would say to her America's Next Top Models, "smized" into the camera. Voilà! I created a GLAMORIZED natural, day look for our beautiful model, Kristina:

February 17, 2011

Want Your Skin To Be Soft, Smooth and Healthy? Keep On Reading - Part II



by Olga Tsiba of Glamorized Skin
After discussing oily/combination skin care in Part I of this topic, let me proceed to dry/sensitive skin type and its care. If you are just joining us and not sure what skin type you have or if you already know you have oily/combination skin type, please, read Want Your Skin To Be Soft, Smooth and Healthy? Keep On Reading - Part I. I previously described dry/sensitive skin type as one with sallow tone, with fine lines, fine pores and prone to irritation. It may also become tight and inflamed. Let us review the routine for this type of skin.

THE ROUTINE

Dry/Sensitive Skin Daily Routine Summary (bold items are required; non-bolded are optional depending on skin condition and may be required if acne or other skin conditions are present)

AM: Cleanse, Exfoliate (not for sensitive skin), Additional Products, Moisturize with SPF
PM: Cleanse, Exfoliate (not for sensitive skin), Additional Products, Moisturize without SPF

CLEANSE - for dry/sensitive skin type, you still need to clean your face both AM and PM in order to remove all traces of make up and dirt that you gather throughout the day and dead skin cells and products that have not been absorbed in the morning. Your cleanser should be extra GENTLE, moisturizing, and not contain any harsh ingredients (i.e. sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate). Some of the cleansers recommended for dry skin may not dissolve make up completely and thus, a soft washcloth will come to the rescue. Just make sure you do not rub too harshly, pull or apply too much pressure when using one. As with other skin types, avoid bar soaps at all costs.


EXFOLIATE – Although dry skin is less likely to have acne, we still recommend gentle exfoliation. This will help to slough off dead skin cells, uncover smoother skin and improve absorption of all the products you will use afterward. There are two methods of exfoliation: chemical and manual (discussed in detail here). For dry skin type, chemical exfoliation using alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is recommended. AHA is different from BHA (discussed here), because it exfoliates only at the surface of the skin. AHA is generally available for home use in concentrations of 5%-10%. Higher concentrations are usually used at the dermatologist's office for chemical peels. My recommendation is to start applying AHA with the lowest available concentration in the PM and pay attention to how your skin reacts. If flakes or irritation develop, reduce use to every other day. Otherwise, if your observe no negative reaction, you may increase the use to AM and PM. The real benefit will be visible after several weeks of use, when your skin will become smoother. Do not apply AHA to irritated skin or wounds that are healing from skin picking as long as there is a scab. Similarly to BHA, AHA is an acid and can damage the healing process.

Recommended chemical exfoliants: Any of the AHA products from Paula's Choice available at www.paulaschoice.com and Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Moisturizer. Again, I want to emphasize that I highly recommend starting with products I list here because the pH factor is extremely important for AHA products and these products have been tested for effectiveness.


MOISTURIZE - Dry/sensitive skin cannot survive without AM moisturizing. Ideally, your moisturizer SHOULD include a lotion with sunscreen SPF 15 or higher. There are different views on when moisturizers with SPF should be used and you can read about them in the first part of our discussion about skin care here.


MOISTURIZE - PM moisturizing is also a must for dry/sensitive skin. As we discussed previously, the night is when your skin absorbs nutrients most effectively. This is when you want to have the good stuff on your face to make you look radiant in the morning.


ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS - You can use additional skin products such as skin lightening products, retinol serums and etc., right before you moisturize and better at night than in the morning. At night, various healing processes take place in your body and your skin absorption is best. However, try to avoid using multiple exfoliants on dry skin at the same time. For example, if you already use AHA in the evening, do not add retinol into the mix as it may lead to additional irritation and extra dryness. However, you can try adding it to your morning routine or vice versa.

Recommended Retinol Products (OTC): Olay Pro-X Deep Wrinkle Treatment, Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer, Skin Remodeling Complex available at www.paulaschoice.com, Philosophy Eye Believe.

Recommended Skin Lightening Products: Alpha Hydrox Spot Light Targeted Skin Lightener, Paula's Choice Resist Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel, for All Skin Types available at www.paulaschoice.com.

Read Additional Tips and Nutrition for more information on beautifying your skin.

February 10, 2011

The Ultimate Brow - Part II



by Inna Grinblat of Glamorized Skin


If you are joining our eyebrow discussion for the first time, we highly recommend you also read The Ultimate Brow - Part I.

WHAT TO DO NEXT

You have gone to the mirror and measured your face to figure out where your eyebrows should start and end. You have also measured the exact place where the arch should be. You did your best at keeping the shape as natural as possible but tweezed it a little here and there to define it based on the guideline. Now what? What if your eyebrows do not begin where they “should”? What if they are too short naturally? What if they do not have an arch, although it feels like they should? What if their color does not match your hair color at all? Eyebrow pencil or shadow comes to the rescue!!! Your main goal is to find the right pencil/shadow color to complement your whole complexion.

LOOKING BACK AT THE COLOR WHEEL

Our good friend, the Color Wheel, will help you figure out the right color for your eyebrow make up. Of course, if you do not dye your hair, you do not need to figure out your eyebrow color because mother nature created it for you. If you need to alter or emphasize the shape of your brows, just pick the shade that matches your hair color OR makes it just a bit darker for a more intense evening look.

Those of us that change hair color should take some time to understand which eyebrow color would work best. Your hair color is your main guide, but here’s a little chart to help you choose:

BLOND hair color + pink/red/yellow skin undertone = light brown/golden eyebrow color
BLOND hair color + blue skin undertone = light gray eyebrow color

RED hair color + all skin undertones = golden red/deep orange color several shades darker than hair

BROWN hair color + pink/red/yellow skin undertone = dark red-brown eyebrow color
BROWN hair color + blue skin undertone = charcoal or dark brown-gray eyebrow color

BLACK hair color + pink/red/yellow skin undertone = dark brown or black eyebrow color
BLACK hair color + blue skin undertone = black eyebrow color

not TOO LITTLE / not TOO MUCH

To make sure your eyebrows look as natural as possible, start with a little color and then add to the desired intensity. For those of you who have never used an eyebrow pencil, I would recommend starting with an eye/brow shadow and a very thin angled brush. You do not need to buy a separate “brow” shadow if you find an acceptable eye shadow color among things you already own. Just tap your brush against the eye shadow and then lightly tap it against your skin as you follow the guidelines below. The powder will be deposited on your skin and neighboring hairs very lightly allowing for a natural look. Once you have mastered the technique, you can try using a pencil.


Using either a pencil or a shadow, start by looking at your eyebrows to find the areas where the hair is missing and there are “bold” patches. These spots occur naturally, as hairs finish growth cycle and fall out and others replace them. These spots need to be covered first. Then, if you need to make your eyebrows longer start where your eyebrows are full and make the line thinner and thinner, making it very thin in the end. If you need to prolong the area where they begin, make sure you decrease the intensity of the color as it moves closer to the bridge of the nose. The color should be the most intense right before, after and at the area where the arch is and its intensity should decrease as it moves out both ways. If you are using a pencil do not "color in" your eyebrows. Try drawing strokes in the direction your hair is growing to make it look more natural.

Here is an example of creating fuller, proportional and complementing eyebrows for our model Kristina, with naturally light hair and green eyes.

1. Natural eyebrows. You can see that they are a little too short. However, they begin at the right place (above the end of her nostrils) and the arch above the iris is visible. This terminology is discussed in detail in The Ultimate Brow - Part I.



2. One eyebrow is filled in and lengthened to its “proper” shape using a matching eye shadow and an angled brush. As a result, the arch is more visible, which emphasizes Kristina’s eye shape.



3. Both eyebrows are filled in and have equal length and beginnings.


This is it. With practice and well-matched colors, your eyebrows will become yet another feature that will help you put your best face forward.


Related Posts:

February 3, 2011

GLAMORIZED SKIN WORKSHOPS




At Glamorized Skin, we are dedicated to helping women of all ages and ethnicities with their skin care and make up routines. In addition to providing you with knowledge on our blog, we will be hosting a series of workshops to meet our loyal readers in person and help everyone on individual basis.

The first workshop in our series will be a discussion about proper make up and skin care routines. Each participant will receive a PERSONAL evaluation and explanation of her skin type, color and skin care and make up routines. We are asking women to bring items they use on the daily basis, so we can make sure our suggestions fit each participant’s level of comfort.



Many aspects of your personal care will be covered: cleansers, toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and sun protection; foundations, concealers, mascaras, eye shadows, lipsticks and lip glosses; skin type, dark circles, red capillaries, and acne.

Each member will leave this two-hour workshop with a THOROUGH understanding of their skin type and suggestions on make up and skin care routine. After you leave our workshop, you will be able to put your BEST FACE FORWARD every day. Additionally, each participant will receive a list of recommended products.

The first workshop location is the sunny City of Hollywood on February 12, 2011.  For a limited time, we are offering the workshop at a 50% discount for $35 per person. 

For tickets and additional information, please, contact us at
BeautSkin@GlamorizedSkin.com or at (949) 705-8165.

Here you can find more information about Glamorized Skin team members